Today I will talk about the usual mistakes for those who start having Wild Discus in their homes.
We must understand that Wild Discus are slightly different behavioral fish compared to Donesticos (Hybrids). I often say that Wild Discus is the last step of who has kept Discus Hybridos so if you are more of a fan of Wild Discus read this short article.
Stress is probably one of the biggest enemies of the Wild Discus. If the Discus in general suffer from so-called stress it can be avoided.
Water
The Wild Discus essentially like "old waters" !!!!
What, after all, are "old waters". Water well cycled, water that is already in the aquarium for at least 3 to 4 months. Water with a large colony of nitrifying Bacteria !! The power of these bacteria is to transform ammonia into nitrites through nitrosomones and nitrite into nitrate through nitrobacteria. Known as the nitrogen cliclo. Why are they called nitrifiers? The nitrification happens with the oxidation of the ammonia transforming it into nitrite and consequently in the nitrite in nitrate. Having nitrate in your aquarium is often normal, since in many places Tap water has nitrate of origin. Many are apologists for constant water changes in aquariums with Wild Discus. I personally consider that this change should be made when the nitrate concentration exceeds 40 mg / l. These concentrations are due to several factors. Lots of food or dirt trapped in the aquarium filter, Wild Discus population excess per liter of water in the aquarium, etc. When we test these values of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the Amazonian waters it is zero !! So we have to take into account that the ideal is to have a chemically similar water in our aquariums. The question they often ask me is how this is possible.
First do not overfeed the Wild Discus inside the aquarium. Do not use beef heart food, remove any excessively frozen or dried food left in the bottom of the aquarium for more than an hour, some small fish that is dead inside the aquarium, water change made regularly when the nitrate are above 40 mg / l. The use of rezinas is negative for us and we do not advise, because we are apologists to do everything in a natural way. Conditioners, liquid peat, anything you can put inside water is most often bad for Wild Discus. There is a huge industry behind aquarium.
I see many using conditioners, resins, osmosis, etc. causing a huge destabilization in the water of the Wild discus. The total control of this water chemistry is lost and a sometimes fatal imbalance. Then we find the Wild Discus full of stress. Dark, closed, hidden, sometimes without eating. Sometimes we have a Ph of 7.5 and in a few hours a Ph of 6.6, very bad for the well being of the wild discus that likes balanced waters, nor rapid changes of Ph or hardness. So do everything in a natural way, no resins, conditioners to lower or raise the Ph and osmosse try to advise first before using. All these radical changes in water chemistry can cause stress and eventually kill their long term fish.
We know you want the best for your Wild Discus to keep them alive and healthy but that's not the best way. Do it in a simple and natural way as Mother Nature
Light
We have already addressed this issue, but we have done so again. The wild discus do not like it and light. Try to use light when you want to give them food or simply enjoy their color beauty. Do not let the light on for more than 5 hours without hiding places, you can have Wild Discus with panic attacks and immense stress that can lead to death. Remember that they live hidden under branches and trunks in the Amazon
Water changes
The water changes must be done regularly but as I said here when they are really necessary. Do not change because you think you should change. Wild discus are extremely sensitive to water changes. It must have stood still for at least 24 hours to release some chlorine or chloramine. Avoid using conditioners and you should have a container where the water should rest for 24 to 48 hours. See if the parameters of the water you are going to put and change are identical to the water where your Wild Discus remains in the aquarium. They are sensitive to these changes.
If you have a high Ph, use granulated peat both in your aquarium and in the container where you prepare the water. Remember this tip the granulated peat is magical, it's natural !!
The question I leave here is simple. For what changes of water when you have levels of No2, No3 and Amonia are practically inesistent? If the amount of minerals in the water was enough for fish to stay healthy
Keep the Wild Discus Aquarium in peace !
In nature the Wild Discus constantly flee from predators. Its pale colors blend with the color of its environment, made of logs, branches, etc. where they take refuge. The wild discus like to live in peace and this is very visible with the time where they begin to gain fabulous colors inside our aquariums. One of the usual recommendations I make is ... leave the Wild Discus Aquarium alone. It is not to be constantly changing the decoration, the sand of the bottom, the trunks, branches that can be placed as a prop are always to be changed . Each time you move inside the aquarium you are disturbing the peace of your Wild Discus. Leave them !!
Another recommendation is to never place an aquarium where on the wall behind the Wild Discus can make shadows. They often frighten themselves with their own shadow. Try to put something behind the aquarium so it does not happen.
Join other fish with Wild Discus
I do not see any problem joining other fish with Wild Discus but I will speak again and recommend something that I have already explained in another article. Never gather fish without quarantine. If you have your aquarium healthy, keep it !! Do not start putting new fish and joining them without going through a hospital tank for 4 weeks. Being Wild Discus or not. There will be mixture of bacteria, eventually some parasite, caution. Fish to coexist with Wild Discus are all those that are part of their natural habitat, geophagus, tetras, etc. and that do not attack the Wild Discus or disturb them by creating stress. It is important to say that often small tetras are eaten by the wild discus just fit in their mouths . But careful attention when introducing them and the diseases that can generate, ending with your aquarium.
Amount of Wild Discus by Aquarium
It is always a pertinent question. For us an aquarium of 500 liters must have 10 Wild Discus adults. This is to maintain a balanced water and does not have excessive pollution caused by feces or urine from the Wild Discus. This is not to say that you can not have more Wild Discus adults in an aquarium of this size. Obviously if you have a population surplus, if you offer frozen food with Beef Heart, if you have leftover food, you will have to make a lot of water changes. If you can maintain the balance of the water without any of this it will be perfect and then you will not have to change it constantly as many do. For smaller fish with 12 cm we advise 20 to 25 liters of water by Wild Discu to grow them quickly.
Oxygenation
I often see Discus aquariums with scared and stressed fish just because the stream of water coming out of the filter is too strong. If so, try to turn against one of the walls of the Aquarium in order for the flow to be less strong. Wild Discus habitually live in still waters with the exception of a few cases. There are few communities that find strong currents of water. That's why we do not advise you in any way. Watch the current and do not let the Wild Discus live bothered by it.
Vitor Hugo Quaresma
We must understand that Wild Discus are slightly different behavioral fish compared to Donesticos (Hybrids). I often say that Wild Discus is the last step of who has kept Discus Hybridos so if you are more of a fan of Wild Discus read this short article.
Stress is probably one of the biggest enemies of the Wild Discus. If the Discus in general suffer from so-called stress it can be avoided.
The Wild Discus essentially like "old waters" !!!!
What, after all, are "old waters". Water well cycled, water that is already in the aquarium for at least 3 to 4 months. Water with a large colony of nitrifying Bacteria !! The power of these bacteria is to transform ammonia into nitrites through nitrosomones and nitrite into nitrate through nitrobacteria. Known as the nitrogen cliclo. Why are they called nitrifiers? The nitrification happens with the oxidation of the ammonia transforming it into nitrite and consequently in the nitrite in nitrate. Having nitrate in your aquarium is often normal, since in many places Tap water has nitrate of origin. Many are apologists for constant water changes in aquariums with Wild Discus. I personally consider that this change should be made when the nitrate concentration exceeds 40 mg / l. These concentrations are due to several factors. Lots of food or dirt trapped in the aquarium filter, Wild Discus population excess per liter of water in the aquarium, etc. When we test these values of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate in the Amazonian waters it is zero !! So we have to take into account that the ideal is to have a chemically similar water in our aquariums. The question they often ask me is how this is possible.
First do not overfeed the Wild Discus inside the aquarium. Do not use beef heart food, remove any excessively frozen or dried food left in the bottom of the aquarium for more than an hour, some small fish that is dead inside the aquarium, water change made regularly when the nitrate are above 40 mg / l. The use of rezinas is negative for us and we do not advise, because we are apologists to do everything in a natural way. Conditioners, liquid peat, anything you can put inside water is most often bad for Wild Discus. There is a huge industry behind aquarium.
I see many using conditioners, resins, osmosis, etc. causing a huge destabilization in the water of the Wild discus. The total control of this water chemistry is lost and a sometimes fatal imbalance. Then we find the Wild Discus full of stress. Dark, closed, hidden, sometimes without eating. Sometimes we have a Ph of 7.5 and in a few hours a Ph of 6.6, very bad for the well being of the wild discus that likes balanced waters, nor rapid changes of Ph or hardness. So do everything in a natural way, no resins, conditioners to lower or raise the Ph and osmosse try to advise first before using. All these radical changes in water chemistry can cause stress and eventually kill their long term fish.
We know you want the best for your Wild Discus to keep them alive and healthy but that's not the best way. Do it in a simple and natural way as Mother Nature
Light
We have already addressed this issue, but we have done so again. The wild discus do not like it and light. Try to use light when you want to give them food or simply enjoy their color beauty. Do not let the light on for more than 5 hours without hiding places, you can have Wild Discus with panic attacks and immense stress that can lead to death. Remember that they live hidden under branches and trunks in the Amazon
Water changes
The water changes must be done regularly but as I said here when they are really necessary. Do not change because you think you should change. Wild discus are extremely sensitive to water changes. It must have stood still for at least 24 hours to release some chlorine or chloramine. Avoid using conditioners and you should have a container where the water should rest for 24 to 48 hours. See if the parameters of the water you are going to put and change are identical to the water where your Wild Discus remains in the aquarium. They are sensitive to these changes.
If you have a high Ph, use granulated peat both in your aquarium and in the container where you prepare the water. Remember this tip the granulated peat is magical, it's natural !!
The question I leave here is simple. For what changes of water when you have levels of No2, No3 and Amonia are practically inesistent? If the amount of minerals in the water was enough for fish to stay healthy
Keep the Wild Discus Aquarium in peace !
In nature the Wild Discus constantly flee from predators. Its pale colors blend with the color of its environment, made of logs, branches, etc. where they take refuge. The wild discus like to live in peace and this is very visible with the time where they begin to gain fabulous colors inside our aquariums. One of the usual recommendations I make is ... leave the Wild Discus Aquarium alone. It is not to be constantly changing the decoration, the sand of the bottom, the trunks, branches that can be placed as a prop are always to be changed . Each time you move inside the aquarium you are disturbing the peace of your Wild Discus. Leave them !!
Another recommendation is to never place an aquarium where on the wall behind the Wild Discus can make shadows. They often frighten themselves with their own shadow. Try to put something behind the aquarium so it does not happen.
Join other fish with Wild Discus
I do not see any problem joining other fish with Wild Discus but I will speak again and recommend something that I have already explained in another article. Never gather fish without quarantine. If you have your aquarium healthy, keep it !! Do not start putting new fish and joining them without going through a hospital tank for 4 weeks. Being Wild Discus or not. There will be mixture of bacteria, eventually some parasite, caution. Fish to coexist with Wild Discus are all those that are part of their natural habitat, geophagus, tetras, etc. and that do not attack the Wild Discus or disturb them by creating stress. It is important to say that often small tetras are eaten by the wild discus just fit in their mouths . But careful attention when introducing them and the diseases that can generate, ending with your aquarium.
Amount of Wild Discus by Aquarium
It is always a pertinent question. For us an aquarium of 500 liters must have 10 Wild Discus adults. This is to maintain a balanced water and does not have excessive pollution caused by feces or urine from the Wild Discus. This is not to say that you can not have more Wild Discus adults in an aquarium of this size. Obviously if you have a population surplus, if you offer frozen food with Beef Heart, if you have leftover food, you will have to make a lot of water changes. If you can maintain the balance of the water without any of this it will be perfect and then you will not have to change it constantly as many do. For smaller fish with 12 cm we advise 20 to 25 liters of water by Wild Discu to grow them quickly.
Oxygenation
I often see Discus aquariums with scared and stressed fish just because the stream of water coming out of the filter is too strong. If so, try to turn against one of the walls of the Aquarium in order for the flow to be less strong. Wild Discus habitually live in still waters with the exception of a few cases. There are few communities that find strong currents of water. That's why we do not advise you in any way. Watch the current and do not let the Wild Discus live bothered by it.
Vitor Hugo Quaresma
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